Saturday, January 1, 2011

Fromage, petits villages et de Noël

Saturday began with an early (8am) start for an excursion around the local region, Auvergne. Our group was about 10 people (including Nivek) so we all spread out on the bus and enjoyed the snow covered scenery from the windows. 
Our first stop was a small village called Orcival. The bus dropped us at the top of the village and as we made our way down the steep, snow covered steps I pondered as to how much money I could actually make as a personal injury lawyer in France. (Considering I would need to speak flawless French I am guessing not that much.) The entire town was covered in a thin blanket of snow and decorated with Christmas paraphernalia.It was my first excersion to such a little town so I was a little excited and the phrase “it’s so cute”, I am ashamed to say, was utilised a little too often.
We went into the local cathedral (called Notre Dame) where the priest and I had an interesting exchange in French which ended with him asking me whether I was from Cavilam (the language school) to which I replied; “oui” and he told me that it was pretty much painted on our foreheads (although perhaps he could have been blessing me… I think I will go with that story instead.)
After a quick coffee we were off to the next town for lunch. We arrived at Les Arnats and entered a “donkey” themed restaurant called ‘Auberge de l’âne’ which Nivek informed me literally translates to; “The inn of the ass”! We negotiated our way through the endless donkey posters, statues and stuffed toys to our table where I tried to inform the waitress that I was a vegetarian. Although my French was fine, the concept was not. After a brief conversation with the tour guide however she fetched the chef who told me he could make me something “sans viande.”
The table consisted of two Chinese men, a Japanese couple, a Texan, a Canadian, Nivek, the tour guide and me so the language of the lunch was French. As far as conversation goes I did alright, particularly when I got talking about my favourite Japanese films and bands with the Japanese couple but got horribly stuck when the Texan asked me why I was a vegetarian. The lunch for me was a salade vert followed by Truffade (a local specialty of potatoes fried with three types of cheese) and, after another course of cheese,we had crème anglais and meringue for dessert. It was a fantastic lunch.
Our final stop for the day was les Mysteres de Farges, a series of caves in which the cheese I have been eating is ripened. The bus dropped us at the top of the snow covered cliff and we began our tour of the “grottes”. The St Nectaire cheeses lay on stones inside the caves and we got to try some while the tour guide told us the history of the cheese. Now, through a combination of the fact that it was intensely cold and that the guide was speaking French, I may have missed out on some of the finer details of the talk, Lucky for me there was a diorama waiting for us in the next room equipped with dramatic music and a light show. This was followed by a “3D experience” where a pair of magic glasses let us view projected images in real 3D, which led me to conclude that the tour had not changed since the 70s, although perhaps it added to the authenticity of the 'little town' feel.
Freezing and ready for home we got back onto the bus only to find that everyone jumped off it just as quick, Nivek and I soon realized why. The bus, parked on the snow next to a cliff, lost traction as it tried to reverse and, every time it attempted to turn around we slid a little closer to the cliffs edge. Needless to say we were off the bus in a flash and back up to the caves to find some warmth.
I can safely say I have never been that cold in my life and locked myself in the bathroom with the hand dryer. Thankfully the bus had blocked a somewhat important route out of the town so within the hour we were stranded half the town turned up to help. (I might point out here it was a small town so there was about 20 people) but soon the bus was towed to safety and we returned home.

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